Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Pears: The Other Winter Fruit


Pears, apples, oranges and grapefruit are about the only fresh fruits available to most of us at this time of the year. Oranges and grapefruit are used so much for breakfast that our thoughts need to be directed towards uses of the other two. We know a great deal about using apples in cooking, yet most folks serve pears raw. Pears are milder than apples, but there is no reason why they cannot fill the place of apples anywhere.

The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette goes on in this February 19, 1945 article to share a recipe for Pear Coffee Cake. I've never given much thought to winter fruits, but those ever-resourceful 1940s housewives would have been keen to find new ways to spice up the breakfast table on frigid winter mornings. There certainly are plenty of fantastic looking pears in the produce section these days, but I'm just as guilty as "most folks" who only "serve pears raw." And yet - Pear Coffee Cake is a little too rich for my blood. Not when I've still got plenty of reducing to do. So I've been rummaging through my vintage cookbooks looking for pear recipes suitable for the reducer's breakfast table. Hmmm... Pear and Cherry Salad, Pear Conde, Pear-grape Salad, Candied Pears, Pickled Pears, Baked Stuffed Pears. The only thing that sounds simple enough for breakfast is a recipe for Stewed Pears. It's a quick recipe, too!

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STEWED PEARS

Peel pears. Cut in half, quarter or slice. Remove core. Add 1 tablespoon granulated sugar for each pear and water to depth of 1/4 inch. Add 2 or 3 cloves, 2 slices lemon. Cover. Bring to boiling. Simmer 10 minutes or until tender. Chill. Serve for breakfast or dessert.

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A November 1949 article in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette also points out that pears can add some variety to winter breakfast menus, but their serving suggestions aren't very imaginative: "Ripe sliced pears are good served with cream... Serve them, too, on prepared cereal." The author does describe some of the varieties of pears that can be found at the market during the winter:
  • "The BOSC, the fall russet pear, is distinguished by its symmetrical base and long tapering neck. When ripe, it is a rich, russet color. It is best between September and January."
  • "The COMICE is a special favorite during the Christmas holiday season for a gift fruit. It is a de luxe pear, large in size which takes on a creamy yellow color when ripe. It often has a bright red hue. The flesh is fine-grained, sweet and juicy. Best between October and February."
  • "The ANJOU is a stubbier, semi-heart shaped pear. It is bordering between a green and creamy yellow when ripe. It has a rich flavor, fine texture and is full of juice, making it a favorite for eating fresh. They are on the market from October until April."
  • "The NELIS is a small, russet pear. It has a sweet tender meat. It appears on the market in January and is available until June."
Which variety is your favorite? Do you have any pear recipes that'd be perfect for getting these chilly winter mornings off to a good start? Or an apple breakfast recipe that might be nicely adapted for pears?

8 comments:

Leiah said...

Here is Louisiana we are fortunate to have pear trees in abundance. I make pear preserves -- cooking them with a little Splenda-blend and cinnamon until soft and then put them up. I haven't attempted to 'can' them but I do use the screw-top Ziploc containers and put them in my freezer until I need them and then I keep them in the fridge and use them like I would any preserve...on toast, a biscuit on the weekend...YUM! Also, they are a delicious substitute in any cake recipe that calls for fresh apples. I make one that is baked in a bundt pan and is the most scruptious, moist, dark, cinnamon thing you'll ever eat! I like to say I eat so many pears I've taken on their shape -- yeah, that's the reason! Meg Ryan's description in "City of Angels" was perfect when she said they were "Sweet...juicy.
Soft on your tongue. Grainy...like sugary sand that dissolves in your mouth."

Kathy said...

Any chance you can supply the pear coffee cake recipe for those who aren't reducing? It sounds lovely.

JacquiG said...

Living in Southern Ontario, I'm close to Niagara where they grow fruit in abundance. Pretty good wine from the Niagara region as well.

I've canned peaches, but I've never canned pears. I seldom eat pears, but when I do I usually get either Bartlett or Anjou.

Jitterbug said...

Queen, your quick pear preserves sound yummy --- though I'd substitute sugar for the Splenda. A friend's fiance made a kind of sauteed pears dessert dish once that he seasoned with cinnamon and it was to die for. I've never been able to replicate it. I guess they have to be just ripe enough, but not too ripe, to pull off a dish like that.

Jacran, the Nelis variety they mention in that article is the only one I think I've never tasted. Is it even still around?

Kathy, here's the recipe! Hope somebody enjoys it...

PEAR COFFEE CAKE

1 1/2 cups sifted flour
1 3/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon mace
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2/3 cup milk
1 egg, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
few drops almond
1/4 cup melted shortening

Topping: 2 to 3 medium pears, juice of 1 lemon, 1/4 cup sugar, 1/4 cup sifted flour, 2 tablespoons margarine

Sift flour, measure and re-sift three times with baking powder, salt, sugar and spices. Beat together milk, egg, flavorings and melted shortening. Pour liquid ingredients all at once into dry ingredients and stir quickly until just smooth. Pour into 8-inch square greased pan. Peel and slice pears and drop in lemon juice.
Arrange on top of cake. Sprinkle all remaining lemon juice over top. Sift together sugar and flour and work in the margarine to a streusel consistency. Sprinkle over pears. Bake at 400 degrees F. for 35 to 40 minutes. Serve warm. Serves eight.

Kathy said...

Woohoo! Thanks, I'm going to have to make it when I get back from holiday travels.

Jitterbug said...

Awesome! Hope it's yummy --- I'll have to vicariously enjoy it through you. :)

Hairball T. Hairball said...

Hey Jitterbug-
I found this recipe a few days ago but haven't gotten around to making it yet. Vanilla Roasted Pears

I buy my vanilla beans in bulk to make these kind of recipes more affordable.

Jitterbug said...

Oh, that looks so good!!! And the scent it would bring to your kitchen - double the goodness. I've got some of that fancy unsalted butter on hand for some Christmas baking, so I'll have to try this out.